My trip to Sambhaji Nagar (Aurangabad) began with what I can only call a breathtaking plunge into history. Day 1 was dedicated to the magnificent Ellora Caves and the imposing Daulatabad Fort. Both sites left me in awe, not just of their scale and artistry, but also of the stories they continue to tell through stone and space.
Grishneshwar Temple – A Sacred Prelude
Before stepping into Ellora, I visited the Grishneshwar Temple, one of the 12 Jyotirlingas. The temple is alive with spiritual energy and sets the perfect tone for the day. It was very crowded at the time I went. Like Tirupati and other such temples, mobile phones are not allowed inside. Also, I did not see any special queue for VIPs in the temple. I had a nice darshan and also had the opportunity to have darshan during abhishek.
Ellora Caves – Carved Time Capsules
My next stop was Ellora, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it comprises 34 caves spanning Buddhist, Hindu, and Jain traditions, dating between the 6th and 10th centuries CE. Each cave is unique, but together they form one of the world’s greatest rock-cut architectural ensembles.
Buddhist Beginnings
I started at the Buddhist caves, their quiet interiors creating a contemplative space.Interesting multi story buildings for prayer, dining and rooms for the monks. The provision for water and light was very interesting. There is a hole made for the lamp to be kept in the same rock which is the pillar for holding the ceiling. Water around each cave, carefully done for ensuring people have their thirst fulfilled instantly near them.
Sculptural Splendour
The Hindu caves are alive with movement, drama, and divinity. I was struck by panels where myth and art meet in eternal stone.A couple of not to miss monuments include the Kalyana Sundareswara panel, where the scene of wedding between Shiva and Parvathi is displayed. I come from a village in Tamil Nadu where the temple is called Kalyanasunderaswarar (Nallur Village near Kumbakonam) with a similar scene behind the shiva linga.
A reflective Shiva Linga which was shining like a glass was also an interesting experience. The surreal shine coming from a rock is something worth seeing and experiencing.
A panel where Ravana is shaking the Kailash Hill is again interesting. There are multiple panels but one where Ravana is losing his footgrip is brought out very well by the artists.
Then I went on to the Jain section of the caves. Again beautiful, multi story caves with intricate artwork. I saw a very large elephant at the entrance, idols of Bahubali, Ambika and Saravanabuthi and more at these caves. This is one set of caves for which you can take a battery car, as the distance is fairly long.
Kailasa Temple – The Jewel of Ellora
The undeniable highlight of Ellora is Cave 16 – the Kailasa Temple. I reserved it for the last during my visit as logistically, the entry and exit is just across the cave. The humongous size of the chariot based temple with so many details from petals of a flower to the stories of Ramayana and Mahabharatha all carved top-down on a single rock is almost impossible to comprehend unless you see it in person. In my view before running to see Loure and Smithsonian museums, every Indian should visit the Kailasa Temple.
You will also encounter the popular pillar in the temple which has made is way to the Indian ₹20 note, While it is a reasonable acknowledgement of the splendor of Ellora, it falls awfully short of bringing its majesty to the world.
When I exited the Ellora caves, I was fully exhausted, so was my phone. I had no power in my phone even to call my driver. I had to take the help of other cab drivers around who were very kind and allowed me to charge the phone till I had enough power to call the driver and move on for my late lunch followed by a visit to the Fort.
Daulatabad Fort – Massive, Secure and Artistic Citadel
In the afternoon, I headed to Daulatabad Fort, an architectural gem, strategic positioning and so many risk management techniques implemented in such a way that a new person entering (read enemy) will like to lose his way in the steps up. It was a bit late in the evening. I had to rush to return as it was very near the closing time. I did have fun climbing up the stairs, looking at the nuances of a fort and returning back. Of course did take a few photos as well.
Tips for Travelers
- Time allocation: Keep 4-5 hours at least for Ellora. The Kailasa Temple alone deserves 90 minutes if not more
- Highlights not to miss: The Kalyanasundara wedding panel, the Ravana shaking Kailash panel, the reflective Shiva Linga, and of course, the Kailash temple
- Combine smartly: Visiting Ellora and Daulatabad Fort on the same day makes sense geographically and logistically. But it will be difficult if you are not fully fit.
Closing Day 1
Day 1 left me both exhausted and exhilarated. The scale of Ellora, with its living blend of faiths, and the might of Daulatabad reminded me of how history is not just to be read, but to be walked through.
And yet, this was just the beginning. The next day was reserved for Ajanta Caves, a site as breathtaking in its art as Ellora is in its architecture. So I went back to the hotel and took a good rest along with a jacuzzi to get fresh. Stay tuned for Part 2: Ajanta & Bibi Ka Maqbara.
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