Sridhar’s Blog

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  • An Orange City Stop on the Way Back Home

    While planning the trip, I was hoping to do five safaris to get two sightings.  While we could only go for three Safaris, all in the buffer zone, we were lucky enough to get three sightings. I tried to extend my luck to see if we could get any more Safaris which did not happen. 

    Instead of stretching the plan or waiting uncertainly, we decided to move on. That is how Nagpur happened.

    The drive from Tadoba to Nagpur felt like a gradual re-entry into normal life. Forest tracks gave way to highways. Silence gave way to traffic. We stopped for a relaxed meal at Haldiram’s, more out of familiarity than adventure, and continued into the city.

    Nagpur is often described simply as the Orange City. For us, it was a pause between wilderness and routine.

    We checked into Hotel Centre Point, centrally located and comfortable enough for a short stay. After days of early mornings and dusty drives, an urban hotel corridor feels surprisingly bright and structured.

    That evening, we visited Deekshabhoomi, the Buddhist monument associated with B. R. Ambedkar. The scale of the structure, and the quiet discipline with which visitors moved through the space, created a different kind of stillness from the forest—more deliberate, more reflective.

    We also stopped at the Zero Mile Stone, a small but symbolic marker that denotes the geographical centre of India. After spending days measuring distance in forest tracks and tiger trails, it felt appropriate to stand at a point that once defined the country’s mapping. We went for dinner at FSB. The food was good.  

    There were, of course, small reminders that travel never unfolds perfectly.

    A three member group travelling back to Chennai realised that the online platform (avoiding the name here) they had used for booking the tickets for their flight from Nagpur to Chennai had  cancelled their tickets erroneously. The scramble to book alternate tickets at short notice was both stressful and expensive. 

    I booked an early morning flight for the chennai group. On reaching the airport, my son realised he had left his wallet behind at FSB after dinner. For a brief moment, that felt more unsettling than any forest encounter. I contacted the restaurant immediately, and to their credit, they were prompt and reassuring. Even before the official opening hours of the restaurant, they coordinated access so we could retrieve it. That simple act of cooperation will stay with me for a long time.

    Myself and my wife had more time in Nagpur as our flight was in the late evening. We went to a mall, watched the new  Avatar movie and drove down to the airport. 

    Our return flight to Hyderabad was uneventful. By then, the Safaris had settled into memory—the tiger at twenty feet, the alarm calls in Zarri Peth, the long waits that suddenly felt meaningful.

    I realized after the trip that not everything spectacular unfolds with a spectacle. Some just need perspective.

  • Tracking the K-Mark

    We had two Safaris booked for the next day, both at the Zarri Peth Buffer of Tadoba Andhari Tiger Reserve. After the close sighting the previous evening, it would have been easy to expect a repeat performance. But forests rarely operate on expectation.

    It’s Mama Again

    The morning drive began in a familiar way—steady, quiet, patient. For nearly one and a half hours, there was little to suggest the presence of a predator. No fresh pugmarks. No agitation in the undergrowth. Just filtered sunlight and long stretches of track.

    At one point, we stopped at a small forest office to use the washroom and have tea. It felt normal —standing there with paper cups, discussing sightings like cricket scores. Breakfast that day was packed poha from the resort, eaten inside the gypsy while waiting and we received a call from the other jeeps informing us that Mama had been sighted.

    Stopping for Tea
    Packed Breakfast

    This moment captures the rhythm of a safari well—long stretches of stillness punctuated by short bursts of awareness.

    We drove towards the sighting and the area looked very familiar to me.  However, the first focus is seeing the tiger. A dozen jeeps were there with cameras clicking and Mama who seems to be deliberately posing for photos.

    Its Mama Again
    Mama decides to move on

    After having got a glimpse of Mama once again, I took my eyes off the tiger to look around as to why the place looked familiar.  Then it dawned on me that just 20 minutes earlier, we had stopped there for a washroom and tea break. There was something humbling about that. The tiger had been within a hundred metres while we were standing and chatting a few minutes earlier.

    Tracking the Tigress | The Elusive K-Mark

    The evening Safari shifted the tone. Our guide suggested that instead of trailing known movement patterns, we look for a tigress that had recently given birth to four cubs. She is known as K-Mark, named for the distinctive “K” shape formed by the stripes on her flank.

    Tracking her was different from waiting for a known male. It required reading smaller signs—movement in the grass, the direction of deer, the sudden quiet of birds. For the first time, I began noticing the forest more consciously.

    We saw sambar clearly that evening, their posture alert and stiff. A wild boar crossed our path with surprising speed. Indian gaur—massive and unhurried—stood at a distance, their size far more imposing than photographs suggest. The forest felt alive in layers.

    And then came the sound.

    Sambar

    A sambar’s alarm call is unmistakable once you’ve heard it—sharp, repetitive, insistent. It doesn’t confirm a tiger, but it announces a predator. When that call echoed through the trees, conversation inside the gypsy stopped instantly.

    The anticipation felt very different from the previous evening. For the first time, the safari felt less like a search and more like participation. We weren’t just hoping for a tiger to appear. We were reading the language of the forest—the way deer react, the way silence shifts, the way tension travels through trees before you see anything at all.

    The guides follow an interesting pattern.  When they know the approximate location, they split into groups and go to all four side roads of that particular segment, hoping that at some point in time the tiger will come out. 

    There she came, the K-Mark. We first saw her from behind.  She was walking ahead of us, very different from the relaxed attitude of Mama. We could sense a high intensity and attention in each of her steps, clearly looking for food. The tigress was alone as she seems to have come hunting for food for her cubs, who remained hidden somewhere deeper in the forest. 

    K-Mark Sighted

    Soon, we lost her in the jungle. Another fifteen minutes passed and we could hear the deer running across and monkeys hurriedly jumping from tree to tree, a sign of K-Mark going for its kill.   Then we saw her emerge again from the other side without any food. Maybe she missed her prey.  She was walking across to a new segment to find her prey. 

    K-Mark Emerging from Other Side
    Searching for Food Continues

    If the first sighting had been about intensity, this one was about awareness.

    The buffers had already surprised me with proximity. Now they were teaching patience and focus of a different kind—the kind that stays with you long after the engine switches off.

  • Tiger Mama in 20 Feet 

    Our first safari in Tadoba Andhari Tiger Reserve was in the Keslaghat buffer in the evening. By then, I had already adjusted my expectations. All our safaris were in buffer zones. No core entries. No guarantees. Just long forest tracks and hope. When we reached the gate, I realized why getting tickets was difficult.  There were only 8-10 jeeps starting at that time.  

    The drive began quietly. No alarm calls. No strong scent of a predator. Only the guide who came with us talked about his experience. We did not notice even subtle shifts in the atmosphere to guide us to a tiger sighting. For over two hours, we drove through dry forest, stopping occasionally, listening, and waiting. It felt uneventful, I was just chatting with the guide to pass time, to learn that there are 22 gates in Tadoba, each having around 6-10 jeeps.  So relatively limited access. No wonder getting safari tickets is not easy.

    And then, almost without warning, we saw him. A tiger known locally as Mama, was sleeping under a tree.  There was no dramatic entry, no chase, no rush. Just a large, calm presence in the shade, the brilliant orange color shining with the sunlight directly on a part of his body and the other part in the shade. 

    Tiger Mama, sleeping under a shade

    We had only one jeep alongside us when we spotted Mama. And it is a practice for the sighters to inform the other jeeps. There was no mobile coverage and our jeep was deputed to find the signal and inform.  We had to drive away from the tiger to inform others and we learnt that another tiger named Chota Mowgli had been sighted by the other jeeps.  They drove towards where we sighted Mama. We drove on the opposite side hoping to get a glimpse of Chota Mowgli, without any luck. 

    A few minutes later, when we returned back to see Mama, there were nearly 20 jeeps following him. We were coming from a different direction, and could only see the jeeps and not Mama. 

    There was no urgency in his movement and that of the other jeeps. He simply began walking along the track. And then, slowly, almost deliberately, he walked in our direction.

    Tiger Mama Walking Towards Us.


    The distance closed far more quickly than I had imagined. Twenty feet is not a metaphor when you’re sitting in an open gypsy. It is measurable. It is visible. It is close enough to notice the rhythm of his shoulders as he moves.

    The forest was silent.

    The tourists in other jeeps stopped speaking. Even cameras seemed restrained. In that stillness, I became aware of only one sound — my own heart, thumping far louder than it needed to.

    He wasn’t charging. He wasn’t even acknowledging us. He was calm. Majestic without trying to be. Entirely unbothered by our presence. That contrast was what made the moment intense. The tiger was at ease. I wasn’t.

    For a brief second or two, our eyes met. I instinctively looked away, unsure whether holding a tiger’s gaze was wise or foolish. It didn’t matter. He had already decided that we were irrelevant.

    Then he paused, almost as if granting us permission to absorb the moment. For about fifteen minutes, he remained visible — sometimes walking, sometimes settling down in a small pool of water, entirely in control of the space.

    There was no roar. No dramatic climax. Just proximity.

    Those fifteen minutes felt longer than the previous two and a half hours combined.

    What stayed with me wasn’t adrenaline. It was awareness. The realisation that in a forest where we spend hours searching for signs, the actual encounter can unfold quietly and without spectacle. There is no background  music announcing the moment.

    When we finally moved on, conversation returned slowly. The engines revved. The forest resumed its ordinary sounds. But something had shifted inside me.

    I had seen a tiger before, from a distance, in a cage. This was different. This was close enough to feel human again — vulnerable, aware, and completely dependent on the animal’s calm.

    The safari had already surprised me once by offering a sighting. Now they had offered something else: perspective.

    Sometimes the loudest sound in the jungle isn’t the alarm call of a sambar or the growl of a predator. It’s just your own heartbeat, reminding you exactly where you stand.

  • Tadoba Calling

    December felt right for Tadoba, but not because of any grand plan. It was simply the window that worked for us as a family. We travelled between 17 and 19 December, 2025 keeping expectations deliberately modest. This was not about chasing zones or ticking boxes. It was about getting the basics right and letting the forest decide the rest.

    My wife and I travelled from Hyderabad to Ballarshah on the Vande Bharat Express on the 17th evening. Ballarshah is an underrated access point for Tadoba—well connected by rail and far less hectic than larger cities like Nagpur nearby. We stayed the night there, and the next morning 3 family members joined us at Ballarshah. By late morning, the entire group was together and ready to head towards the forest.

    That early decision—to slow things down with a night halt—set the tone for the trip. Wildlife travel has a way of punishing rushed plans, and Tadoba is no exception.

    Staying Close to the Forest

    We stayed at Red Earth Resort Tadoba, and the choice turned out to be comfortable, practical and efficient. The resort handled everything end to end—station pickup, safaris, meals, and even our eventual drop at Nagpur. That matters more than it sounds, especially when travelling with family.

    Red Earth is spread across 19 acres with just 19 rooms, built in a village-style layout using sustainable materials and reused wooden doors. Rooms came with open-to-sky bathrooms, and traditional look and feel.  However, the facility itself is firmly modern.

    Our Group With the Red Earth Tadoba Team
    Short Video Taken at the Time of Checkin to the Resort


    What I appreciated most was how the place respected the rhythm of safari days—packed breakfasts ready before dawn, and a quiet bonfire with high tea every evening just as you returned from the forest.

    There’s also a tiger sighting board at the resort, updated daily, which subtly reminds you that nothing here is guaranteed.

    About RedEarth
    Sightings Board
    Typical Cottage
    Family Cottage

    The staff were consistently warm and unforced in their hospitality. No theatrics, no sales talk—just people who seem comfortable hosting guests who’ve come primarily for the forest.

    The Reality of Booking Tadoba

    This is where expectations need the sharpest reset.

    Despite booking three safaris, all of ours were in buffer zones. No core areas. Initially, that sounds like a compromise. In reality, it was simply a consequence of timing. December weekends in Tadoba are busy, and safari slots disappear quickly.

    What I learnt—and this is worth stating plainly—is that Tadoba safaris are best booked 30 to 45 days in advance, ideally through your resort. The official booking website is functional but extremely complex, especially if you’re coordinating multiple people and dates. We found it far easier to let the resort manage permits and logistics, reducing the chance of last-minute surprises, though at an additional cost. 

    Trying to add two more safaris during the weekend proved impossible. No availability, no flexibility. Instead of forcing the issue, we accepted it. Wildlife travel rewards patience, but it also demands realism.

    I was personally upset as the organiser of the trip that I could not secure more safaris.  I constantly explored new opportunities to book till my

    Setting the Right Expectations

    By the time we entered the forest for the safari that evening, expectations were already grounded. We were staying close to Tadoba, travelling comfortably, and fully aware of the limitations of our bookings. That combination—clarity over comfort, realism over ambition—made the rest of the experience feel unforced.

    This post is deliberately stopping here. The safaris themselves deserve space of their own, away from planning details and logistics. Tadoba doesn’t reveal itself all at once, and neither should the story.

    For now, Tadoba Calling is simply about answering that call responsibly—by planning well, accepting constraints, and arriving at the forest ready to listen rather than demand.

  • Solo Trip to Ajanta and Ellora: A Hidden Gem

    For me Ajanta and Ellora have been of interest since college.  However, it always happens that when I plan a trip, this comes out always in the shortlist, but has never made it to the top slot to be picked up, thanks to weightage for enjoyment, games, hill stations, beach and food. 

    Hence, I realised that with a group, I am not going to make it to this place. In March 2025, when I had an opportunity to do a solo trip, I knew the one place I will go to. And as luck would have it, the flight charges from Hyderabad were reasonable and I could get a Aurangabad Gymkhana Club (AGC hotel) at a reasonable price as it was just after the peak season though i was booking just 2-3 days before the travel. 

    There is a direct, early morning flight from Hyderabad to Sambhaji Nagar (new name for Aurangabad)) and an evening return from there.  That made it convenient for me to spend quality time. Being the Holi weekend, I had 3 days to spend anyway and I decided to take it leisurely and not rush. 

    The Hotel and Cab 

    Without really knowing that AGC stood for Aurangabad Gymkhana Club, I booked the hotel on Booking.com  . I was in for a surprise there, as with the hotel, I had access to lovely facilities including the swimming pool, jacuzzi, steam, sauna, and spa.  This helped me to recover well after each day of intense sightseeing. Yes, the rooms and the hotel are not new, but the club facilities make up for the same. I will say it was a value for money hotel with excellent amenities, decent food and good service. 

    Aurangabad Gymkhana Club
    Sunrise from my Room

    I had organized a cab through AGC for me from Airport pick up to Airport drop, which was very useful. I could schedule my visit on the fly as required because of this flexibility.

    Ajanta and Ellora

    The primary focus of the trip is to visit Ajanta and Ellora caves. I have written detailed blog on each of these marvellous places which deserve more than a blog. See the Ellora Blog here and Ajanta Blog here.

    I have tried to do justice to the place with simple English and some nice photographs.

    The Food  

    After landing, I dropped my luggage in the hotel and directly left for Ellora.  As mentioned in my blog, it took till evening for me to reach the hotel. My lunch was at Green Leaf Restaurant, which was half way from the caves to the Fort.  The food was hot and tasty (and I was famished). I would rate this restaurant at 4 stars. I had my dinner at AGC Hotel, a simple kichidi. 

    Poha BreakfastHotel Sai
    Lunch at Hotel San

    The next day, I left early around 7 AM.  I decided to have my breakfast at Hotel Sai, a road side eatery which is pure vegetarian.  The morning Poha was so good that I returned to the same hotel for lunch on my way back from Ajanata.  I would rate this place 4.5 out of 5.0

    I had a nice massage in the spa too.  Also, I had a good Steam and Sauna bath that day.  A decent spread of dinner buffet was a nice way to treat myself after visiting both Ajanta and Ellora. 

    The next morning, I had a leisurely breakfast followed by a swim in the hotel itself.  I went out for the local sightseeing and went for a traditional thali at Bhoj. The thali was good, but was a bit overwhelming in terms of the number of items and the size of the servings. I would rate the food 4.0 out of 5.0.

    A Movie Break

    With time to spare before my flight, I decided to do something different: I went to watch the Marathi historical film “Chhava”, based on the life of Chhatrapati Sambhaji Maharaj. Watching this story in Sambhaji Nagar itself felt meaningful—a reminder of the courage and legacy of Shivaji Maharaj and Sambhaji Maharaj that shaped this region. I would rate the movie 3.0 out of 5.0.

    Movie Poster taken from the Internet

    The Sweet Surprise 

    Perhaps the most unexpected highlight of my last day was a humble sugarcane juice at  Pakiza Sugarcane Juice Stall. I was there for 15–20 minutes and watched in amazement as hundreds of glasses were sold to thirsty locals. The simplicity of the business model also struck me.  There were only 2 SKUs, Sugarcane Juice with Ice and Sugarcane Juice Without Ice. The scale of operations was really big. I am sure, going by the flow, 1000 cups an hour would not be an over estimate.  

    Pakiza Juice Stall – Look at the size and scale

    I couldn’t resist with just  one glass and quickly ordered my second glass. In an age of sodas and packaged drinks, seeing the popularity of natural sugarcane juice felt refreshing—both literally and figuratively. I will rate this place 5.0 out of 5.0.

    In Conclusion

    With that I left for the airport and back to Hyderabad that night. When I hit the bed at home, I really felt that I took the right decision to go to Ajant and Ellora on my first solo travel.  I have been talking to my friends and family, who voted against this place for so many years and I believe many of them are now excited to visit Ajanta and Ellora.

  • Ajanta Caves: Timeless Art, Murals and More

    After a soul-stirring day at Ellora and Daulatabad Fort, my second day was to visit the Ajanta Caves,. If Ellora is about monumental carvings in stone, Ajanta is about timeless paintings on rock walls that whisper stories of a golden age.

    Journey to Ajanta

    We left early in the morning, hoping to beat the heat and the weekend crowd. The road wasn’t great, but the anticipation of seeing Ajanta kept me excited. Vehicles aren’t allowed up to the caves, so visitors park around 5–6 km away and take the tourism department shuttle bus. I was lucky to get into the very first bus of the day, which meant I had a near-empty caves to go around—an absolute blessing. Of course, this was planned as I wanted to avoid as much of heat as possible and I am a habitual early raiser. 

    Ajanta Caves


    Ajanta’s Timeless Murals

    Ajanta dates back from the 2nd century BCE to the 6th century CE, with its Buddhist rock-cut caves divided into monasteries (viharas) and prayer halls (chaityas).

    Padmapani
    Vajrapani

    Unlike Ellora’s sculptures, Ajanta is renowned for its paintings. Though many murals have faded with time, the surviving ones still leave you awestruck. To truly appreciate them, one must reimagine their prime, when every wall and ceiling was alive with color. 

    Murals on the Wall
    Ceiling Murals

    Ajanta demands both patience and imagination. Many paintings are dimly lit (no artificial lights or flash photography allowed), so you often have to let your eyes adjust and then mentally reconstruct how dazzling they must have looked centuries ago. A knowledgeable guide can make a huge difference here, as they help you connect the faint outlines to their larger stories.

    More Murals
    Intricate Artwork
    Buddhist Temple

    Here, the access to the caves was easier and far shorter than what it was in Ellora.  So the walk is relatively lesser.  

    Highlights for me:

    • Padmapani & Vajrapani: The Bodhisattvas depicted with grace and compassion, iconic symbols of Ajanta’s legacy.
    • Ceiling Paintings: Richly detailed mandala-like art, lotus motifs, and geometrical patterns that mesmerize you when you look up.
    • Narratives of Life: From a royal lady gazing into her mirror to depictions of traders and foreign visitors (Chinese and European symbols), they reveal how Ajanta was a hub of culture and global commerce.
    Chinese women
    English Mural
    Mandala Art
    Artistic iCeiling : Carpet Style

    The Sleeping Buddha in Cave 26, a serene sculpture of Buddha’s Mahaparinirvana, gave me goosebumps.

    Sleeping Buddha

    Bibi Ka Maqbara

    The next day, I visited Bibi Ka Maqbara, often called the Taj of the Deccan. Built by Aurangzeb’s son in memory of his mother, it may not match the Taj Mahal in scale, but it certainly carries an understated charm. The white dome set against the blue sky, with manicured gardens leading up to it, gave me a quiet sense of peace.

    Bibi Ka Maqbara
    Mini Taj

    Souvenirs That Spoke to Me

    At Ajanta,I also bought a couple of stone-carved souvenirs — a lamp holder and an incense stick holder. Small but meaningful, they now serve as tactile reminders of the artistry and devotion I witnessed during my journey.

    Candle Holder Bought at Ajanta

    Closing Thoughts

    Ajanta showed me how art can survive across centuries, while Bibi Ka Maqbara was a reminder of how legacy can echo even in replicas. And yet, the day wasn’t over—my journey still had one more chapter left.

  • Ellora Caves: Confluence of Art, Architecture, and Spirituality

    My trip to Sambhaji Nagar (Aurangabad) began with what I can only call a breathtaking plunge into history. Day 1 was dedicated to the magnificent Ellora Caves and the imposing Daulatabad Fort. Both sites left me in awe, not just of their scale and artistry, but also of the stories they continue to tell through stone and space.


    Grishneshwar Temple – A Sacred Prelude

    Before stepping into Ellora, I visited the Grishneshwar Temple, one of the 12 Jyotirlingas. The temple is alive with spiritual energy and sets the perfect tone for the day. It was very crowded at the time I went.  Like Tirupati and other such temples, mobile phones are not allowed inside.  Also, I did not see any special queue for VIPs in the temple.  I had a nice darshan and also had the opportunity to have darshan during abhishek.

    Grishneshwar Temple Gopuram

    Ellora Caves – Carved Time Capsules

    My next stop was Ellora, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it comprises 34 caves spanning Buddhist, Hindu, and Jain traditions, dating between the 6th and 10th centuries CE. Each cave is unique, but together they form one of the world’s greatest rock-cut architectural ensembles.

    A view of various caves. Understand during rainy season, there will be a waterfall here
    At the entrance to the caves, you see Kailasa temple in the background



    Buddhist Beginnings

    I started at the Buddhist caves, their quiet interiors creating a contemplative space.Interesting multi story buildings for prayer, dining and rooms for the monks.  The provision for water and light was very interesting. There is a hole made for the lamp to be kept in the same rock which is the pillar for holding the ceiling.  Water around each cave, carefully done for ensuring people have their thirst fulfilled instantly near them. 

    Budda Statue In Teaching Pose


    Sculptural Splendour

    The Hindu caves are alive with movement, drama, and divinity. I was struck by panels where myth and art meet in eternal stone.A couple of not to miss monuments include the Kalyana Sundareswara panel, where the scene of wedding between Shiva and Parvathi is displayed. I come from a village in Tamil Nadu where the temple is called Kalyanasunderaswarar (Nallur Village near Kumbakonam) with a similar scene behind the shiva linga. 

    Siva Paravathi Wedding Scene

    A reflective Shiva Linga which was shining like a glass was also an interesting experience.  The surreal shine coming from a rock is something worth seeing and experiencing. 

    Shining Shiva Lingam

    A panel where Ravana is shaking the Kailash Hill is again interesting.  There are multiple panels but one where Ravana is losing his footgrip is brought out very well by the artists.  

    Ravana Slipping while trying to shake Kailash, the abode of Siva

    Then I went on to the Jain section of the caves.  Again beautiful, multi story caves with intricate artwork.  I saw a very large elephant at the entrance, idols of Bahubali, Ambika and Saravanabuthi and more at these caves.  This is one set of caves for which you can take a battery car, as the distance is fairly long. 

    Kailasa Temple – The Jewel of Ellora

    The undeniable highlight of Ellora is Cave 16 – the Kailasa Temple. I reserved it for the last during my visit as logistically, the entry and exit is just across the cave. The humongous size of the chariot based temple with so many details from petals of a flower to the stories of Ramayana and Mahabharatha all carved top-down on a single rock is almost impossible to comprehend unless you see it in person.  In my view before running to see Loure and Smithsonian museums, every Indian should visit the Kailasa Temple.

    Intricate details on the top of Kailas Mandir
    Aerial View

    You will also encounter the popular pillar in the temple which has made is way to the Indian ₹20 note, While it is a reasonable acknowledgement of the splendor of Ellora, it falls awfully short of bringing its majesty to the world. 

    Popular pillar which has found its place in the Rs. 20 note

    When I exited the Ellora caves, I was fully exhausted, so was my phone. I had no power in my phone even to call my driver.  I had to take the help of other cab drivers around who were very kind and allowed me to charge the phone till I had enough power to call the driver and move on for my late lunch followed by a visit to the Fort. 

    Daulatabad Fort – Massive, Secure and Artistic Citadel

    In the afternoon, I headed to Daulatabad Fort, an architectural gem, strategic positioning and so many risk management techniques implemented in such a way that a new person entering (read enemy) will like to lose his way in the steps up.  It was a bit late in the evening. I had to rush to return as it was very near the closing time.  I did have fun climbing up the stairs, looking at the nuances of a fort and returning back.  Of course did take a few photos as well.

    Saraswathi Step Well
    Massive Cannon
    Chand Minar

    Tips for Travelers

    • Time allocation: Keep 4-5 hours at least  for Ellora. The Kailasa Temple alone deserves 90 minutes if not more
    • Highlights not to miss: The Kalyanasundara wedding panel, the Ravana shaking Kailash panel, the reflective Shiva Linga, and of course, the Kailash temple 
    • Combine smartly: Visiting Ellora and Daulatabad Fort on the same day makes sense geographically and logistically. But it will be difficult if you are not fully fit. 

    Closing Day 1

    Day 1 left me both exhausted and exhilarated. The scale of Ellora, with its living blend of faiths, and the might of Daulatabad reminded me of how history is not just to be read, but to be walked through.

    And yet, this was just the beginning. The next day was reserved for Ajanta Caves, a site as breathtaking in its art as Ellora is in its architecture. So I went back to the hotel and took a good rest along with a jacuzzi to get fresh. Stay tuned for Part 2: Ajanta & Bibi Ka Maqbara.

  • Andaman (Part 3): Beauty of a Tropical Paradise

    Beaches are always alluring. Having grown up in Chennai with Marina Beach nearby, visiting the beach has always been a fond childhood memory. After moving to Hyderabad 28 years ago, I visited beaches much less often. I’ve had the chance to see beaches in Goa, Mauritius, and Antigua, so I wasn’t expecting Andaman to be very different. But once again, Andaman surprised me.

    The beaches were well-maintained, less commercialized, and breathtakingly beautiful. The professionalism, safety, and warmth of the service during the adventure activities made the trip truly memorable.

    Corbyn’s Cove Beach

    We spent our first evening strolling along Corbyn’s Cove Beach, just across from our resort. One thing that was noticeably missing was the usual chaotic commercial activity found at most tourist spots. The beach had only a few simple huts selling basic food, souvenirs, and fruits. This was true for all the tourist spots we visited in Andaman—a good lesson for other destinations.

    Chidia Tapu

    One evening, we went to Chidia Tapu, a place known for its sunsets. It was cloudy the day we went, so we missed the sunset, but the place was still great for spending time and taking photos. The beach had beautiful trees, a mix of sand and rocks, and even some rocks in the water where you could sit and relax.

    North Bay Island

    A 30-minute ferry ride from Port Blair takes you to North Bay Island, which is full of adventure activities. If you don’t plan to visit Elephant Beach on Swaraj Dweep, North Bay is a great place for water sports. Since we were heading to Swaraj Dweep, we skipped the sports and just enjoyed the beach.

    Kala Pathar Beach, Swaraj Dweep

    This was the first beach we visited on Swaraj Dweep. With its white sands, green trees, turquoise water, and black rocks, it was a beautiful sight. The place is known for its sunrises, but it’s a beautiful spot to admire and take photos at any time of day.

    Vijaya Nagar Beach, Swaraj Dweep

    Our resort on Swaraj Dweep was on Vijaya Nagar Beach. It’s a calm, serene beach with clear water and white sand, with a few trees providing shade. It’s also known as a great place for scuba diving.

    Elephant Beach, Swaraj Dweep

    We took a 25-minute boat ride to reach Elephant Beach, where we had booked snorkeling, a sea walk, and parasailing. The system for the rides, which was based on the boat you arrived in, was well-organized. Normally, waiting for others to finish their activities would be annoying, but the beautiful location made it a pleasure to watch people enjoy the water sports. We saw everyone from small children to the elderly having a great time. The only ride that didn’t seem to meet expectations was the submarine ride.

    Radha Nagar Beach

    We saved the best for last. Considered one of the best beaches in the world, we had high expectations, and this beach exceeded them. It’s a long, clean, and well-maintained stretch of sand with turquoise water. Even with a large crowd, it didn’t feel packed, and everyone had their own space to enjoy.

    In fact, we loved it so much that we returned the next morning. There were fewer people, and it was incredibly calm and soothing.

    Summary

    In summary, the beaches across Andaman make it a tropical paradise that I believe every Indian should visit before heading to global destinations like Mauritius and the Maldives.

  • Andaman (Part 2): Echoes of the Freedom Struggle

    When you are in Andaman, you walk through the corridors of Indian history, especially the story of our freedom struggle. You learn how the colonial powers treated those who dared to raise their voice for freedom.

    Three places are particularly important: the Cellular Jail, Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose Island (formerly Ross Island), and the Tiranga Memorial, where the Indian flag was first hoisted in 1943.

    Cellular Jail: Light and Sound Show

    The Cellular Jail

    I visited the jail twice: once during the day with a guide to learn how the prisoners were treated, and again in the evening for the light and sound show. I highly recommend experiencing both.

    The first thing that struck me at the entrance was how determined the colonial powers were to suppress the freedom movement. The statues outside show how the freedom fighters found the energy to fight such tyranny.

    We first visited the hanging house. The original was just an open-air platform, strategically placed so prisoners could watch their fellow inmates being hanged. Next, we saw the flogging frame, where prisoners who disobeyed orders were whipped. We were told that other inmates were forced to do the flogging.

    After this, we saw the area where prisoners were forced to work on oil extraction. The work targets were incredibly high for a manual process, and the punishment for not meeting them was flogging. You can also learn from the guide about the four levels of punishment given to freedom fighters, which makes for a very emotional experience.

    Extracting Oil from Coconuts
    Various Punishments and other key details about the Cellular Jail

    Finally, we saw the cells. They were built so that prisoners could not interact with each other. This design allowed a few guards to manage many prisoners effectively.

    Veer Savarkar’s cell at the Cellular Jail

    Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose Island (Ross Island)

    Before the Cellular Jail was built, Ross Island was set up as a penal settlement. We learned that freedom fighters were brought to this small, overgrown island, where they cleared the land and made it livable. It later became so well-known that it was called the “Paris of the East.” The island was recently renamed after Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose. Today, you can see many deer roaming among the ruins of old buildings and bunkers.

    Tiranga Memorial

    On December 30, 1943, for the first time, the Indian Tricolour was hoisted on Indian soil right here in Andaman. The Tiranga Memorial, with the Indian flag flying proudly, marks this historic occasion. The sacrifice of the freedom fighters offered a ray of hope for an independent India. Of course, it took four more years to achieve independence, but this was a major milestone.

    Tiranga Memorial
    Tricolor proudly hoisted at the same place where first tricolour was hoisted in 1943

    Conclusion

    In recent years, it feels like many have forgotten what it took to gain the freedom we enjoy today. Visiting places like Andaman and Amritsar (Jallianwala Bagh) helps us truly understand the price of our freedom. For that reason, I would recommend a pilgrimage to Andaman.

  • Andaman (Part 1): A Tropical Paradise with Echoes of the Freedom Struggle

    For me, the Andaman Islands have always been linked to India’s freedom struggle. The names “Kalapani” and “Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose” immediately come to mind whenever I hear of Andaman.

    Cellular Jail
    Tiranga Memorial

    I clearly remember watching Kaalapani, a popular Malayalam movie based on the life of Veer Savarkar, on its first day in theaters. It was a powerful film that showed the inhuman treatment of freedom fighters in Andaman. I also recall the lovely beach scenes from an old Tamil movie, Andaman Kadhali. While I don’t remember the film itself, some of its songs and beach scenes are still fresh in my memory.

    Image Courtesy Google Search
    Image Courtesy Google Search

    Andaman wasn’t on my travel list until last December. I received an email about a program in Port Blair in early January, with the option to bring my family. I jumped at the opportunity and quickly made our travel plans. I was surprised to find so many flights available from various Indian cities, including a direct flight from Hyderabad, which made our journey comfortable.

    Our Stays and Experiences

    We stayed at the Peerless Resort at Corbyn’s Cove in Port Blair, where our program was also held. It’s a nice property with direct access to the popular Corbyn’s beach. I’d rate it 4 out of 5. All our meals were part of a package, so we didn’t eat out much, except for a visit to Annapurna Cafeteria on our last day. The food there was good, but the service was average.

    Peerless Resort Garden
    Lovely Tree at the Peerless Resort

    For a couple of days, we stayed at the White Coral Resort on Swaraj Dweep (Havelock Island). I would rate this property 3 out of 5. Although the location is great, it wasn’t managed very professionally. If I had known about the nearby Silver Sands Beach Resort, I would have booked it instead. While on Swaraj Dweep, we ate at Tealogy Cafe and Silver Sand, both of which were excellent. I’d rate them 4.5 out of 5.

    Vijaya Puram Beach near our resort

    We took the Makruzz Ferry from Port Blair to Swaraj Dweep. The cruise itself was great, but the luggage check-in and collection process was inconvenient, so I’d rate the overall experience 3.5 out of 5.

    Cruise
    Waiting for Baggage, Boarding
    Boarding the Cruise

    One day on Swaraj Dweep, I rented a bike to explore the island. It was a great, affordable experience. I’d recommend renting a bike for getting around Swaraj Dweep, as the distances are short and the routes are simple. In Port Blair, however, a cab is more useful because the city is larger and has more traffic.

    Over the week, we visited North Bay, Ross Island, and Swaraj Dweep, in addition to exploring Port Blair. The only thing we missed was a visit to Baratang Island. We were in Andaman for a week, but I had other commitments that prevented us from joining the group heading there, which requires a very early 4 a.m. start. The team that went had wonderful things to say about it.

    I have written three separate blogs about our trip: one on the history, a second on the beautiful beaches, and a third on the adventure activities we did

    Interesting Things I Learned About Andaman

    • Because there are so many beaches, each one is used for specific activities. For example, Radhanagar Beach has no water sports, while Elephant Beach has them all.
    • To reduce waste, only 2-litre water bottles are sold. This has significantly reduced plastic pollution.
    • Tourist spots have only basic shops, nothing fancy.
    • The local people we met were all very warm and supportive.
    • All the activities we tried—Snorkeling, Sea Walk, Parasailing, and Jet Skiing—were professional and safe.
    • Besides coconuts, almost everything is brought from the mainland. This makes items a bit pricey, but still affordable.

    If you are planning a trip, I suggest a 5 to 7-day visit. You could spend three days in Port Blair (including Baratang) and two days on Swaraj Dweep. With seven days, you can also visit Shaheed Dweep (Neil Island) without feeling rushed.

    I hope you find this useful for planning your own visit to the Andamans. Do share your experiences and feedback.